Basement Waterproofing Solutions

Published on October 14th, 2021

Rainwater entry in a basement is an age-old concern. The source of infiltration is the key. From identifying the source of the entry, we can fix the problem.
There are 6 main entry points in a basement – we will address one of the biggest entry points in this article.

Floor wall joint– where the floor meets the wall. This is one of the biggest issues occurring in homes today.  When the home is built, the basement is dug out and the footings and walls are installed, then the floor.  They need to do the concrete pours in stages (footing poured – then wall poured – then floor poured) inherently creates a seam in the structure. The over dug area, in which the builders can put the forms in and pour the concrete wall – is called the “over dig”. This area builds up with rainwater and between the seam in the three structures and the virgin dens of undisturbed soil, there is hydrostatic pressure or water pressure.  This will show over the footing and come up to the floor, creating big floods in the basement.

OK, so I know that this is the area of flooding. Now what do I do?
A) The “Berm solution”:
The old builders used to create concrete berms on the inside to stop the water –The problem with this is that the new concrete and the old concrete now create a new “seam” where the old meets the new and it continues to leak –NOT a solution.

B) Pour a new floor solution:
This mentality follows the Berm solution and will not work either.

C) Hydraulic cement in the seam solution:
This may work short term, but as the concrete expands and contracts with the change of seasons, this will fail.

D) Exterior solutions:
Reroute downspouts out 10 – 15 feet. We like to do 15 feet due to getting past the over dig area.

E) Pour a sidewalk over the over dig area:
This solution is a waste of money. The low pressure of the backfilled soil against the virgin soil still exits, and water will always find the point of least resistance and will fill the over dig area and create hydrostatic pressure.

F) Exterior sealing:
Best done at time of new construction but without a route for the water to exit the area. This will not work permanently and will eventually find its way under the footing to the floor wall joint or floor crack.

G) Exterior French drains:
Preferred to be done in new construction but doable after the fact at great expense. Remember, deck landscaping now will need to be moved in order to get heavy equipment in and dig down to the footing on the exterior and install a low-pressure system. That will then need to drain away from the home at a hitch to a hill or to a deep drywell—exterior dam proofing can be done at the same time as the drain is installed.

The best solution for floor wall joint seepage:
Interior drain based on a pump is the most economical and realistic solution to a post-construction basement waterproofing problem. Basement Technologies (1800-Busy-Dog) has patented low pressure interior systems that will work in a far superior manner than any other system on the market! 1-800-Busy-Dog can also install exterior French drains. For all your basement waterproofing needs, call us today. 

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